In spite of the overwhelming success of the first installment Spain: it’s in Europe, and even though I no longer have the advantage of long-term cold medicine use, I have rashly decided to continue to taunt you with stories I occasionally wish were complete fabrications.
Before going to a foreign country, it’s often wise to investigate local foods, culture and traditions so you’ll know what you’re missing when you go eat in the McDonald’s and hang out with other Americans. To assist you at least in the food department, you should know that almost all Spaniards are just wild about ham. And not just any ham: cured, acorn-fed ham.
Museo del Jamón: Ham Museum for those of you playing along at home. Those cured ham legs are all real and they’re all for sale. (Note the little, white, plastic cuppy things to keep customers from being dripped on….quite considerate, really.)
Don’t do it, you have so much to live for!
In order to cut a cured ham properly, you need one of these babies: the ham vice. (Okay, it’s not really called that, but I wish it were, if that counts for anything.) As the photo accurately shows, you cut TOWARDS you. I don’t know if the Japanese got harakiri / seppuku from the Spaniards, although it should be looked into.
One of my greatest pleasures when showing foreigners around Madrid, is taking them to the Museo del Jamón. I personally adore cured ham, and just the shock value of all those pig legs hanging from the walls and ceiling truly makes for a nice chuckle for me. (Insert judgement here.) Still, there are those whose adventurous spirits go only so far as ordering beer at McDonald’s, which is also a treat even if it does involve actually going into a Micky D’s.
Eating may also come as a shock to you if you order fish or shellfish in a restaurant and find your meal staring back at you. The official reason for leaving the head on is for you to see how fresh the critter is (or was). The unofficial reason is to make foreigners squeamish. And it’s pretty effective. And you can argue all you want about the whole freshness, thing, you don’t see them leaving the head on the cow for the same purpose, now do you? I didn’t think so. So it’s all about the squeamish bit, eh?
If you should be lucky enough to be invited into a Spaniard’s home, you’d better pray they don’t serve langostinos which are prawns.
This is not to say that prawns aren’t tasty, and it by no means implies that Spaniards are lovely hosts. Shellfish in general and especially on the coast is particularly good, I just mean that you may not be getting much of a fighting chance at actually eating it. The Spanish have a very ingenious method of supporting Darwinian theory at the dinner table: the prawns are served in one big dish in the middle–with participants taking their prey directly from the dish, not dividing them up first–and only the fastest will end up well-fed. As the prawns are served in full battle dress (shell + head) you must learn to decapitate, shuck and eat these little guys in record time. There are those who are partial to sucking on the head, but I’m also convinced that this has less to do with the flavor and more to do with the shock value. Remember, you are going up against seasoned veterans, and any tactic is valid. Good luck!
It’s almost like they’re looking at you…
As for other cultural differences, the most difficult things to adjust to in this country for those of an Anglo-Saxon upbringing are questions of space and sound. Personal space is not exactly a concept which translates. Neither is staring, cake mixes, nor quiet conversations in a bar. As a matter of fact, I highly recommend Spain as therapy for anyone who wants a more forceful personality. Don’t think of it as a lack of space, think of it as an excess of togetherness…with strangers. This means that people will bump into you, stand too close when talking to you, and occupy the stall next to yours in an otherwise empty restroom, all to keep you from feeling lonely. Quite thoughtful, really.
This is the only time you are guaranteed not to get bumped or stared at: when you’re alone
When it comes to unnerving tourists, older Spaniards are absolute Olympic Staring Champions. It’s not their fault. As a matter of fact, it should be noted that there is no single verb “to stare” in Spanish, they have to slap extra words on the verb to look–mirar–and make it “mirar fijamente” which is “to look steadily” that’s as close as you get. Kind of like buying a ticket to New York and getting dropped off in Jersey. Close enough!
You may say, “But what are they staring at?” Ahh you silly, silly foreigner! You think they need a reason? Even if they did need a reason (which, I must stress, they don’t) you are already giving them one by dressing like that. However you’re dressed, it doesn’t really matter. But a particularly good reason for locals to stare are shorts and sandals in January, or ubiquitous tennis shoes during the rest of the year. (I’m not sure where the rest of the world got the idea that Spain is always hot, but in Madrid there’s plenty of pneumonia to go around if you don’t dress for winter in winter, my darlings.) Americans in particular LOOK the most like tourists, and if you don’t know what I’m talking about, you are most likely the center of a lot of attention. Congrats!
I am no longer surprised by staring. I am blonde after all, and for the first few weeks of my stay was convinced I must look just like someone famous named Rubia as men kept calling me this as they’d walk by or shouting it at me from passing cars. (If you don’t know what rubia means, go look it up, I’ll wait.) It must also be noted that I used to wear shorts in January and ubiquitous tennis shoes and yes, the pneumonia was truly and thoroughly enjoyable, thank you.
The thing is that everyone KNOWS I’m not from here, which is a strange sensation that I can’t quite seem to shake. In the States you see such a mix of races and ethnicities that until someone opens their mouths, you have no idea that they aren’t anything but American, because that’s what people usually are. Here, it’s the opposite. Odds are if a person is black they are actual immigrants from Africa, if they have a terribly deep sunburn, they’re probably from Ohio….or Liverpool.
In summary: they can’t be staring, because they don’t even have that verb. Got it? Okay, got it.
And one final totally unrelated note because it needs to be said:
Flamenco dancer dolls: please don’t buy these as a souvenir unless the receiver is 5 years old and / or the plan is “Sevillana Barbie”. (I’m just saying…)